Tell Trickster about your designer journey and how you became interested in knitwear.
When I was around 4 years old, I was babysat by my great-grandparents. They had a lot of yarns and handcrafted work lying around. And my grandmother was always sewing, so I remember constantly seeing people around me do handicrafts.
I was mainly interested in sewing machines, but as I was too young to pick up sewing, my great-grandmother taught me how to crochet instead. I then started knitting at school and found it super nice.
Some years later I enrolled at the Estonian Academy of Arts to study fashion design. During second year we had a course focussed on ethnic design practices which is where I rediscovered crocheting and knitting. Fast forward to third year, I started experimenting with a knitting machine and decided to get one for myself. That’s when I started designing my first collection “Dreaming as if it was reality’’. As a material, I found mohair to be the best to experiment with — and it also made me fall in love with hand knitting again.
For now I’m still working with a knitting machine, but I’m also making stuff by hand.
Describe Tilda if she was a person.
Tilda is bubbly, fun, and outgoing. She lives on our planet but loves to wander in her dreamland daily. She’s also curious about her surroundings but always second-guesses reality. Tilda is a powerful person, but in some ways a bit like a flower child.
What’s the difference between designing knitwear and clothes based on patterns?
There isn’t much of a difference. Most knits are based on patterns that might be physical, but I’m only calculating the patterns and sometimes winging it. It’s very mathematical to get to the real product. The creative part is sketching or trying out new techniques on the machine or the needles.
What makes you go?
Many things. Buying new yarn, lovely people and good talks over coffee, moving my body, dancing, seeing other creatives show their art, pouring myself some good quality coffee or tea, visiting my hometown Keila and seeing my mother.
But also seeing the final product — especially on somebody who feels happy in it. I've been lucky enough to work with my dream Estonian artists who have worn my clothes. Seeing them happy in my designs makes me go!
What are your fashion do-s and don’t-s?
Fashion do-s:
People wearing colourful clothes. Although, ironically, you may see me wearing a lot of black clothes (but I always try to wear something colourful as an accessory).
Knits on people. Love seeing more and more people wear knitwear, because it’s not only the fuzzy, itchy sweater you found from some secondhand shop. Instead knitwear should be sexy, warm, and soft. It should feel like a warm hug that you never want to let go from.
Not caring about trends. It’s more important that people feel great in their outfits.
Fashion don’t-s:
I try not to judge people on what they wear. But there’s one thing that’s very hard for me to see men wear — skinny jeans that look like leggings. Unless you prove me otherwise, that's my fashion don’t.
Your first fashion memories?
My first fashion memory is watching fashion-TV shows. America’s Next Top Model was my go-to as a child. Another early memory is seeing my grandma make dresses for me and my Barbies. I also remember being really into drawing, so much so that I drew into my brother’s school books. My grandmother gave me a fashion colouring book to combat that so I could design outfits for the figures in the sketch book. Eventually I had 4 of those books.
When I was in my teens, I attended the ERKI fashion show right next to Viru Keskus. I remember being fascinated by the ticket package because of the details it came with. It drew inspiration from travelling, so it had a passport and some other supporter’s stuff in it. Might as well say it was my first ever PR package.
What are the nicest things about being a designer?
The nicest thing about being a designer is following your imagination. And my imagination can be a bit crazy sometimes.
For example, my first collection was inspired by my dreams. I trust my dreams and the visuals that are in my head. And sometimes I just get this vision of how a yarn will look like as a product, which means I don’t sketch that much anymore. But when I do, it’s to understand the product.
The second nicest thing is that I get to meet so many cool people. Models, other designers and artists, photographers, and all-around just super nice people. Being able to connect with others is the most important thing as a designer because you need to communicate. And also collaborate! Collaborations are such a big part of being a designer because they create new opportunities that you maybe didn’t see before.
For example, me and Merily Mikiver collaborated on our latest party collection “Tilda x Merul”. Merily explored colours, and I was experimenting with black and white. It was super cool seeing two different designers come together and make something out of the box.
What are some not-so-nice things about being a designer?
Sometimes you need to give things more time. And it can be super frustrating to race against time because it feels like there’s never enough of it. But that’s when you need to take it especially easy and slow yourself down.
I wish people understood that all small brands have real people behind them. At the moment I’m doing everything alone in Tilda, so things take time. Owning a brand feels like having 9 different jobs simultaneously. It can be stressful and tiring. But in the end, it's for a good cause.
If you were a piece of knitwear, what would you be?
I would be an airy sweater made of mohair because it looks and feels dreamy, and is very soft and tender. It keeps you warm but also gives you air whenever you need it. A piece that’s easy to wear in any kind of weather.
Tell Trickster a joke.
Why don’t fashion designers play hide-and-seek? Good luck hiding those bold patterns!
What’s your karaoke go-to song?
Funny enough, I have never been to a karaoke bar! But if I were to sing a song I would choose These Boots Are Made for walkin´ by Nancy Sinatra.
Cool people you’d like to see wear Tilda?
I don’t think it matters how young or old the person is — everybody is cool enough to wear Tilda. But if we’re talking about artists or creative people, then…
In Estonia, I’d love to see my knits be worn by Inga Tislar, Evelin Võigemast, and Maris Pihlap. Estonian women are so amazing and powerful, and I love seeing my knitwear on them.
Globally, it would be super cool to see some stuff on Emma Chamberlain, Marie Jedig, and why not — Bella Hadid.
All these cool people are also invited to our pop-up shop #knit4 in Telliskivi opening in September. A unique collaboration experience by Sask Design, Merily Mikiver, Knitwear by Mau, and Tilda Knitwear.
Keep up with Tilda & Grete at https://www.tildaknitwear.com/.