If you ask almost any foreigner about what they know about Estonians, I bet they’ll say “They’re hard-working”, or “You can find at least one Estonian in any port in the world.” Okay, to be fair, the latter is something you might hear an Estonian say instead. But it’s true! We love to travel, and we love being good at what we do.
So, in our attempts to locate these talented individuals around the globe, I sat down with Iris Kristin — Stella McCartney’s Collection Merchandiser — to pick her brain about her career and understand if being Estonian is a superpower.
From organising Tallinn’s largest youth fashion show Moelennuk to volunteering at another high-production fashion show ERKI, it seems like you’ve always been involved in fashion. What’s your earliest fashion-related memory?
Fashion has somehow always been important to me. I don't know where it comes from or how. But, as a young girl, I loved fashion movies, exhibitions, and youth fashion shows.
In secondary school, I wanted to try as many different roles as possible in fashion. So, I designed and sewed, organised events, and styled photoshoots. When it was time to choose a university degree, I saw my strengths in buying and merchandising.
Well, congrats! According to LinkedIn you’re working as a Bags Merchandiser at Stella McCartney. Explain to me like I’m five years old, what’s your job about?
There are different types of merchandising. At Stella, I’m actually a Collection Merchandiser.
A Collection Merchandiser works with designers to create a sellable collection. We review past results, buyer feedback, and study market trends. We then use this analysis to create a collection brief for the design team. The brief is used as a guidance on how many options to develop in each category. It also defines the balance of the offer in terms of functionality (length, sleeves, necklines), and provides pricing. Once the range has been developed, we sell it to retail and wholesale clients. Then, we analyse the results and the cycle begins again. We essentially guide the collection in terms of commerciality from A to Z.
Did little-Iris dream of this job? Of working in fashion?
Honestly, I just knew I wanted to be in the middle of the fashion industry's chaos. I had no idea how or in which way.
It seems like you’ve done a great job at keeping your inner child happy by chasing your dreams. What fascinates you most about this job industry? Why Stella McCartney?
I was always interested in working for big brands. On the flipside, a lot of people prefer to be their own boss. But I wanted to support great leaders and minds in creating something cool.
In addition to working at Stella McCartney, you’ve got experience at Louis Vuitton and Tom Ford under your belt, too. It’s very impressive! What’s the secret to your success?
There’s no secret — I just applied online!
Hahaha, good point! Now, pardon me, I did some stalking on Instagram and found a picture titled: “Nothing more important than being kind”. Has this mentality helped you progress in your career?
I don't think your achievements are worth anything if you haven't been kind to people during the process. I often think about the kind of boss I want to be to young girls like myself in the industry. It's vital to uplift and encourage each other. Thankfully, I’ve had a lot of great examples from my early days in the industry at Tom Ford, LV, and now Stella.
What’s the most painful lesson you’ve received in your career?
Most people will want you to do well, but not all.
Ouch. That’s a tough pill to swallow, but it’s a good reminder for sure. What character traits or practical skills do you feel are vital in your work?
The most important quality — and this applies to any industry — is to be humble and keen to learn. In the beginning of my career, when I was interning, I was quite literally just happy to be there. So, my advice is to never think you’re too good for any task.
In merchandising, it’s also important to be aware of what’s going on in the market and what other brands are doing. In my case, I’m definitely a “chronically online” person. I'm very interested in people and culture. What are they thinking? What are they consuming? What are the next big ideas in society? I'm curious. And it's perfect for my work, as I need to foresee fashion trends.
Is being an Estonian a “vital trait”, too?
Honestly, the biggest advantage to being an Estonian abroad is our humility. I think it's why many people were kind to me early in my career. As I said — I was just happy to be there. I come from a country with practically no fashion industry. I've cleaned basements, bought cigarettes for the team, and carried heavy boxes and rails. I've done it all.
The biggest downside of being Estonian abroad is our reservedness. I seriously urge everyone to scream and shout about their achievements, ask for opportunities, and embrace discomfort by forcing yourself into uncomfortable situations.
We’ve both packed up our lives to go study and live in London. You could say that’s one way of forcing yourself into an uncomfortable situation. Except, I moved back to Estonia after finishing up my studies, and you’re still there — 7 years later. Tell me, why London?
Because London is the best for fashion education — and, in my opinion, the best place in the world for a foreigner. Here you’ll blend in and find your place no matter where you’re from. But of course, there’s no denying that quality of life is much better in Estonia, so I might still be back later in life.
So, when people say you can take the man out of the city, but you can’t take the city out of the man, they’re talking about you?
I truly think Estonians don’t know how good they have it! But in saying that, I’m also worried that while I’m still young, Estonia might be a bit too small for me. I’m a big city girl through and through.
Honestly, same. Lucky you, though. Travelling is a big part of your job — London, Paris, Milan, to name a few. Do you have a favourite?
London is cool, edgy, forward-thinking. Paris is chic, elegant, timeless. Milan is loud and fun. I love them all so much, so I can’t pick one!
Okay, okay. I won’t make you! But I do want to know this — is your work tangible? As in, how does your role at Stella McCartney manifest in the brand’s day-to-day life?
Once you work in fashion, you just stare at what people are wearing on the bus, at the supermarket, and at the airport. And when you see products you’ve directly worked on in the streets, it’s of course super rewarding.
I can imagine. I get the same feeling when I see a billboard out in the open with my words on it. Jumping to another topic — tell me, do you feel like your age has helped you on the career ladder or rather hindered your success?
To be completely honest, I still sense a significant bias against young people in the fashion industry. But, if I've learned anything, it's this: people with decades of experience often don't know what they're doing or talking about, either. It’s about who can disguise it better. The best I can do is to be reliable, trustworthy, organised — and hope that people believe in me regardless of my age.
I know what you mean! We’re both the same age, so I can relate. What’s most important to you in your work?
Having fun! Fashion can be stressful and intense. But, as we say in the office: we're not saving children. So I try to not take myself too seriously.
I’ve noticed you read a lot. What’s your favourite book?
For fashion fiends I totally recommend Andre Leon Talley’s memoir: The Chiffon Trenches. It’s so good!
It’s been sitting on my “Want to Read” shelf on Goodreads for some time now. Thanks for the reminder! Do you consider yourself a creative person?
It might be surprising, but I wouldn’t consider myself a creative person at all. I'm always super analytical. I subconsciously analyse trends, social media, and people on the street. So, my ideas are often data-driven, rather than creative.
Final question — and I must ask this — since you’re around beautiful bags every day: What's in your bag? And which bag is it?
Of course it’s a Stella bag! But I'm not one to carry a list of interesting items, like some cool girls do. Instead, I often leave the house with an empty bag because I have nothing to put in there. Yet, I take it because it completes my outfit.
Spoken like a true fashion girlie!
All pictures are from Iris' personal archive.
