Trickster

I have to admit that the layers I wear on myself are not always thought through or conceptual. The other way around, the constant improvisation is part of the process. I keep on recombining different pieces, not ment to be worn together initially, and through that, changing their initial function or idea. Examples of this could vary from presidential reception outfits worn at work, work suits in nightclubs, and performance costumes in academia. 

Roughly, I could say my wardrobe, counting here only the pieces truly meaningful, is from two main sources: local designers or second-hand. Similarly to my daily professional practice, I believe that is where we clients, as inevitable consumers, should be sourcing our clothes. I see more and more circular building materials in construction and reinforcement of local practitioners through architecture competitions and direct sourcing Maecenases who can afford it. Sorry, I didn't mean to start discussing work here, but I just constantly see parallels in our local cultural scene. Of course, there are always these so-called catalog buildings or, in the case of fashion, the Uniqlos and Muijis of the world, but they will be carrying out the basics part, some of which would do a solid foundation on top of what to build the “look” on. But again, even though it seems I have been thinking about it consciously, I haven’t, it's always the process, for what I have every morning, 5 minutes maximum, before running late for my first meeting, precisely this 5 minutes. I always thought that fashionably late derives from this notion.

This dress, originally made for the “Frustra” performance, was designed by super cool local designer Kadi Adrikorn, whose brand name is Adrikorn Artefacts. During the “transformance”, as we called the play, we looked at sequences of woman's emancipation. So it’s important to mention this is not a dress, but a latex apron, to make a point about the theme. I usually combine it with a body or a black turtle neck. I always have this with me when I travel for work. And having an apron to add a layer of celebration is the easiest way to upgrade for an evening event with minimal effort. I might have worn this fit more often abroad than in Estonia. 

I love it because you can spill whatever on it: wine, tears, or blood (hahaha), and after a quick shower, it's back in business!

This perforated leather suit found second-hand in Trieste on my way to Venice night out, is a rare beauty. It's even more interesting when I'm not wearing it but looking at it. It comes as no surprise that architects love perforation, porousness, and layering. This piece of genuine leather seems old; I would say it's from the 70s. It looks very fragile but is surprisingly agile. I don't think there are many materials that can allow this cutting method of holes, as they are usually weaved and would branch out and still be comfortable to wear. Even though I'm a non-meat eater, using leftover pieces of leather of lower quality could be a sufficient way to work with leather industry residues and cutoffs. The layering creates an interesting effect by reading the overall silhouette and body inside the suit. This fit looks good both from afar and even better in detail.

I bought these two pieces from Melbourne Lost and Found market for 5 euros and asked my mom to work on them a bit to make them fit. Let's see how and when I will manage to wear it, but so far, it has given me a feeling of a convenient and flexible textile. There were no tags inside, so I have no idea if it's an Australian-made design or someone's Halloween costume. 

This cape is from the New York market, bought a decade or more ago. This thingy has been my savior at a lot of Venice events when, after a full day of strolling around, you pull this one out from your bag and go straight to a dinner event. I love how it works with a silhouette, as it's quilted, thus making it very stiff and form-holding. Simultaneously, when wearing it with a belt, it becomes similar to a morning robe.

Riga second hand, work-related event. Before that, I went shopping with two dear friends, and the joke was, “Oh, Sille is ready to start to wear color!” This dark green one was the closest to black, so I had to take it. This is the best-fitting lightweight outfit I have found over a long time. Usually, if I want to get something fitting, I need to have it custom-made, so I consider myself lucky to have found this one. I have been wearing this since I got it at least once a week, sometimes more often. 

I think it was last year when my students had a bet if I would show up wearing my Bionic Ski outfit again or not. And, of course, I usually did, even when trying to wear it only twice a week - it just always accidentally matched with studio days! There is a high chance, that this green two-piece will have the same destiny. 

Also, from Melbourn, probably the Red Cross store, or something similar. Super comfortable! I´m not sure if it is a clown costume or proper office wear. I guess I can still define my own take on it, but it definitely already has gained attention among architects because of its graphical stripy look.

Supporting the local fashion scene with this one. Karl Joonas Alamaa was one of the best EKA fashion class graduates last year. He is a skilled tailor, but first of all, a highly conceptual thinker and a profound researcher. I bought one of his pieces for the presidential reception, and then we started discussing something more casual: a work uniform. I like how he talks about human fashion, not women's or men's fashion. A garment that doesn't define the wearer but allows anyone to define the essence of it themselves. It took us several months to finalize designing the jacket; the cut for the trousers was ready way earlier. I loved the conversations we had during the process, high-quality fabric, which is a big fashion house leftover, and the history of covering jacket sides — why men have one side up, women the other. Mind the trousers zipper —no side up to affirm the gender, a genuinely humane fashion.

A very vivid memory of it is when meeting with the mayor of Tallinn or going to the parliament for a talk. This uniform is really an empowerment tool, that helps me as a young dean to be heard and considered. It works every time!

This is also from Frustra performance and made by Kadi. Love it, as you can combine and wrap it around you in so many different ways. It's my main gear to attend a wedding, so it gets out of the closet maybe once a year. When you unroll it, it’s just a rectangular piece of silk with two stripes of rope attached to it and some sewing. It’s super simple but allows a very creative approach to wearing it. The last time I wore it was at a wedding on a Greek island, where the wind truly made it “alive,” flapping around me.

Well, one could say I'm collecting licenses — from professional ones to car, captain, and motorcycle licenses. The truth is, I'm still missing my motorbike driving exam, and I'm not sure when I will have time for it, but there is gear all over my house. Just this summer, I got myself new trousers, where you can insert knee protectors, but I have not worn them in this way yet; they are just very comfortable everyday wear. Most lately, I have been wearing them at the Tallinn Architecture Biennale opening gala, as I was so dead by the end of this festival that I just needed a comfortable protective layer on myself. 

This golden bomber was made for the presidential reception, and we were joking with designer Kadi that I was fashion-bombarding the event with a designer sweatsuit. It also reminds me of one Venice Biennale opening event, a Dark Side Club salong night, where I was sitting in the back of people and really didn't want to be part of the conversation, as I knew too little about it. Of course, I was directly asked to make a statement cause if I'm not here for that, why am I wearing a golden bomber? That was a fair point from the moderator's side, but I still didn't have anything clever to say. So yes, I promised myself later that I shouldn't wear it if I didn't have anything to Hatsay. Clothes can teach you!

This piece is part of Kadi's thesis, which interpreted the headdress as an enforcer and how it may empower the wearer. Thus, I have used this hat in strategically important ways — for example, at public appearances and events.

My dear friend runs a small frames boutique in Tallinn called VIUU. I get all my sunglasses from there. I think it's essential to support small shops and entrepreneurs in Tallinn. There are statistics that Estonia has the most shopping mall squaremeters per capita, and I will do everything to lose first place in this competition. Thus, the least I can do is shop in small independent institutions.

These frames I bought within 5 minutes, jumping in after gym and before going to dinner. And it worked out just fine: you can choose the best-fitting sunnies within 5 minutes at VIUU because they are really professionals and have well-curated pieces on sale. Just later at home, I noticed that they were Dior Homme. Well, I guess my head works above the gender limitations.

Trickster thanks Overall for the technical support of the What We Wear series.